Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Day 5: San Sebastian, Akelarre, September 2012

I could write a book about the awesomeness that is San Sebastian, but I'll try and keep it to three posts, one for each of the magical days that we spent there and the amazing restaurants that we visited. We arrived in San Sebastian via a 5 hour train ride from Barcelona. Our room at the beautiful Hotel Maria Cristina was not yet ready, so we headed out on the town in search of a non-tapas lunch.
The old part of town.
 The incredible beach!

The incredible "secondary" beach.
 After lunch on the beach, we headed up the mountain, a perilously steep climb for two tired tourists in sandals, but well worth it. Below is the view from the mountain of the rooftops down below.
 Naturally, when we arrived at the apex, dreaming of the views from the base of the Christ statue, we were informed that Jesus was closed for the day. Advance warning people, please!
Still, the views were none too shabby from our vantage point.
 There was an old castle on top of the hill. I can't imagine any army trying to attack it. The climb alone would kill most of them (ok, maybe I'm slightly exaggerating).
Boys and their guns.


Akelarre
In addition to its pristine beaches, San Sebastian is famous for its food, and boasts three 3-Michelin starred restaurants. Making reservations at each was one of the first things Rachel did when we booked this trip back in November 2011! The first night we went to Akelarre. We would normally have ordered one each of the tasting menus, but the "Bekarki" menu looked so good, we both ordered that. The food was both incredibly tasty, but also very whimsical. See below!

 "Sea Garden"
Everything was edible, including the breadcrumb "Prawn's sand".
(From left to right: Oyster leaf, mussel with "shell", sea urchin sponge, beach pebbles (shallot and corn), codium seaweed coral (goose barnacles tempura))
 Xangurro in Essence, its Coral Blini and "Gurullos"
(The crustacean's meat is reinforced by its juice. Accompanied by pasta that looks like rice grains)
 Razor Shell with Veal Shank
(Razor Shell with veal and cauliflower mushroom)
 Sauteed Fresh Foie Gras with "Salt Flakes and Grain Pepper"
(The salt was sugar shavings and the pepper was puffed black rice made to look like peppercorns - something the waiter did not disclose until after the course, leading to some delicious cognitive dissonance of the taste buds punctuated by a big "aha" and a sheepish "knew it at along -- NOT".  This turned out to be one of (if not THE) favorite dish of three days of fantastic restaurants)
 Turbot with its "Kokotxa" (eh.... I forgot a picture).

"Desalted" Cod Box with Shavings
(Crystallized cod presented in a fish box, over edible shavings and cod tripes in tomato water - again - this is just so whimsical - this is actually how salt cod is packed and shipped!)
 Carved Beef, Tail Cake "Potatoes and Peppers"
(aka, Chris should have gone with the beef)
 Milk and Grape, Cheese and Wine in Parallel Evolution
(From left to right: grapevine, curded sheep milk and walnut, powdered fresh cream with chive and grapes, quark cheese with nutmeg and pink pepper aroma, must of tapioca and tomato, idiazabal semi-matured with quince jelly and wine dust, brandy syrup with gorgonzola cheese ice cream, torta of Caesar's grape with raisins soaked in Pedro Ximenez.)
 Layered Strawberry and Cream
(a reconstructed strawberry. basil seeds game. - this was as delicious as it was beautiful - I loved the gorgeous plate the restaurant had made to suggest fresh cream)
 Stuffed and ready for bed :)

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