Biondi Santi

The mother ship! Ferrucio Biondi Santi is widely regarded as the "inventor" of modern Brunello. In the late 1800s, he planted a particular clone of the sangiovese grape (sangiovese grosso*) and planted it at his family's estate in Montalcino, Il Greppo. The 1888 brunello is the very first bottle of brunello. His grandson Franco now runs the estate and oversees the production of Brunello.

(Two bottles remain of the 1888 Brunello)

We met our tour guide Laura and we proceeded to the cellar. She explained the history of Biondi Santi and the wines they produced. Biondi Santi produces a Rosso (made from vines 10 years old and younger), a Brunello (made from vines between 10 and 25 years old) and a Brunello Riserva (made from vines older than 25 years old). There were no riservas produced for a big span in the twentieth century due to the two world wars. There was wine produced however! Biondi Santi invited other winemakers to bring their grapes to their cellar and they produced brunellos during the war years in a co-op fashion. After some year that I forget, there was a big gap in riserva production, and the next riserva that was produced was the 1945. They don't produce a riserva every year - only in good vintages. In 2002, for example, they only produced a rosso. Because it had to be made with whatever quality grapes they could salvage from the estate (2002 was a bad year in Montalcino - too much rain in August), the 2002 rosso has a special grey label with a red banner - indicating that it is not made purely of the vines that are 10 years or younger.

Biondi Santi ages its wines entirely in large oak barrels. They are one of the few producers to do not let the wine spend anytime in smaller french barriques. Some of their barrels are over 100 years old. All of the brunello spends some time in barrels of different ages, spending its last months in the oldest barrels.

In similar old school fashion, they are the only estate we visited where the initial fermentation takes place in concrete! Laura explained that it was historically done in concrete, but switched to wood or steel because of the porous nature of concrete. Now they coat the concrete with a protective layer.

After our tour of the facility, she called our "guest" and asked him to come down to our tasting. It turned out to be Franco Biondi Santi himself!! We tasted a 1997 riserva, a 1971 riserva and a 2003 annta. FBS said that the 97 vintage is the greatest in his lifetime and will certainly last for 100 years. How long for the 71 we asked? He said 80 years or so, and that we should come back and visit in 40 years and taste it again. We spoke with him (through Laura - he doesn't speak much English) for about an hour and a half. It was pretty amazing. His daughter and grandson came in at some point too.

(the boy and I with FBS and his grandson)

One of the things I also found really interesting about Biondi Santi is that they "re-top" bottles of the riservas. Given that they are supposed to last many decades, the level of wine in the bottle, as it ages, goes down over time. Thus if someone really wants to wait 100 years to drink it, they need to re-fill their bottles to preserve the wine in the bottle and make sure it isn't exposed to too much oxygen the during its aging (the surface area at the neck is obviously much smaller than in the main part of the bottle). Each year, people can bring their wines to Il Greppo to be topped. FBS opens each one and tests it too make sure its properly preserved. If he deems it ok, he weighs it, opens a bottle of the same riserva from his storage and drops in grams at a time to bring it back up to the good level. It's recorked and sealed. You get a certificate from the estate that has the date on which it was topped up. Woe be to the poor person who brings his bottle and FBS determines it hasn't been properly stored or there's something else wrong with the bottle! He puts a generic cork in the bottle, and he no longer claims the bottle as his own :( We have the certificate from when the bottle of 71 that we tasted was re-topped (back in June of 2001). I asked what happens when they need to retop the 1888 (only two bottles left) and the 1891 (only 6 bottles). FBS said that they've designated the 55 riserva to re-top those, and it will be the first time in history that they've topped off a bottle with wine from a different vintage. The 55 Biondi Santi Riserva was on a Wine Spectator list of "the case of the century."

After the tasting, FBS lead us into the "high security" cellar where he keeps bottles of the riservas from different years. Only he has the key!

After our visit to the treasure trove, we said our goodbyes and were sent away with a parting gift - a bottle of Biondi Santi Rosato!! This is a real treat as it is not a big production and is not exported at all to the U.S. He decided to make it a couple years back to show all of the different things that can be made out of the sangiovese grape. It's not exposed to the skins at all like other roses, it gets its color from the juice of the grape.

(the house)

* One of the things I learned this day was that although everyone recognizes that the sangiovese grown in Montalcino and the sangiovese grown in Chianti are different (amongst other things the Montalcino sangiovese has thicker skinds), "sangiovese grosso" is not a scientifically recognized clone of the sangiovese grape. There is a Il Greppo 11 clone however, which is named after grapes grown on vine 11 at Biondi Santi.

Paradiso di Frassina, Casanova de Neri, Cupano

(Our adoptive grandparents - described below)

After Soldera, we visited Paradiso di Frassina. This winery would definitely turn out to be the most unique of our visit. The winery was purchased with the intention of doing a scientific study of how sound waves effect the growth of plants (in this case grapevines). To this end, he plays Mozart to his grapes and, in conjunction with the University of Florence, studies how the grapes respond to the vibrations in the ground that the music produces. Recently, Bose teamed up with them and donated brand new (and expensive) speakers. One funny aside is that apparently the decision to play Mozart was two-fold. First, the owner really likes Mozart. Second, Led Zeppelin and other rock music has been shown to kill tomatoes. This winery makes a Rosso and Brunello and a wine that is a blend of twelve grapes called "12 Uve." The idea behind 12 Uve is that similar to notes on a scale, the different grapes together can create a harmonious wine. It was very good! They age each of the grapes separately before blending them at the very end.
Next we headed to lunch in Montalcino at Il Giglio. The view was beautiful. We got to sit right next to the window. After lunch, it was Casanova de Neri time. Casanova de Neri won Wine Spectator "wine of the year" back in 2001. Our guide was really great. He basically thought the boy was the greatest person even because he knew the difference between Slovenia and Slovonia (Brunello is aged in oak of the latter). After we toured the production facility, we headed to the tasting. 6 half glasses in all (and 03 and 04 Brunello, 05 Rosso, 00 Cerretalto, 03 Tenuta Nuova and another that is mostly cabernet).... yikes! Glad we had a driver. Casanova de Neri produces three different Brunellos, one produced from each of the three plots of vines that they have in different locations in Montalcino. The "Tenuta Nuova" was the one that won the award. I liked the Cerretalto best, which comes from the Eastern side of the mountain.

Our last wonderful experience of the day was at Cupano, which was added to our trip at the last minute. We traveled to the home of the two producers, a French husband and Italian wife team, who produce a relatively small number of bottles each year (they only export to CA in the U.S.). They showed us around their property and let us taste grapes right off the vine. It was fun to hold them and they tasted great. Afterwards we opened a bottle of their '03 Brunello and sat around on their porch for a couple hours and talked about wine, their children, the U.S., etc. They were like our adoptive grandparents. Grandpa eventually got out a little of the 04 Brunello which he was supposed to have brought to Siena earlier in the day - he never made it because he decided to spend time breaking in his new horse instead. It was fantastic. At some point they brought out salami and bread and we snacked.


We said our goodbyes and headed back to Castello Banfi.

La Bella Toscana: Casse Basse di Soldera

In Italy, much like the U.S., sometimes in order to gain access to things, you gotta either know someone or you gotta pay somebody. There were a couple of wineries that we really wanted to visit, but we couldn't arrange visits on our own. For these, we arranged a tour with Cellar Tours, which is sort of a luxury tour service. Giancarlo, our driver, showed up to pick us up in the morning and we made our way to the first winery of the day: Casse Basse di Soldera. Pardon my "terribleness" with names, but we were lead around the estate by the daughter of Soldera. We started in the gardens, which are maintained by her mother. She explained that Soldera is a "natural" producer.

As a little lesson, in Europe, there is an abundance of wine that would be considered to be produced "organically" in the United States. Because of Europeans' belief in the importance of "terroir,"many producers have always been reluctant to add pesticides and other chemicals to the vines, believing that it doesn't allow for the natural expression of the grape that the "terroir" would produce. Daughter Soldera explained that they like their wine to be called "natural" instead of "organic" because "organic" is too new of a word to describe a process that is very historical. Anyhoo, "natural" wine production involves adding only minimal amounts of sulfur when necessary and sometimes means that no unnatural yeast is added during the fermentation process. Some of the must from the first fermentation is saved and can be added if necessary as "natural yeast."

The garden, she is explained, is therefore the most logical place to begin our tour. They purposely grow a variety of trees and flowers to attract different birds, insects and other of nature's creatures (except porcupines, she pointed out, because they dig holes and ruin the crops). They believe in a balanced ecosystem and work hard to give back to the environment what they take away from it.

We then moved to their production center, which was built in 2001. The basement was constructed such that it "breaths" and lets natural air in. We got to taste an '07 Brunello and an '04 Brunello straight from the cask. Soldera only produces Brunello (which is a riserva by virtue of its being aged 4-5 years in barrels (standards call for 3 years for a riserva)), but they don't call it a "riserva."

La Bella Toscana: Group Wine Tour

On day four of our Tuscan adventure, we booked a group tour with Angela Saltafuori. She had driven the other 6 members of our group from Florence, so we met them closer to our hotel in Montalcino.

We first visited Donatella Cinelli Colombini. Donatella is the sister of one of the owners of Barbi. She operates a female only winery, setting out to prove that women can compete and make good wine. Winemaking, like many other labor intensive professions, is considered "man's work." The entire winemaking process is run by women. Our tour guide was really awesome. She told us about the history of Montalcino and how it had come to produce Brunello. The town originally produced pottery and leather (using the tannins of the oak trees which grew in the hills) and was quite prosperous. However, after a siege by Florence which lasted quite some time, new technologies had been discovered to produce pottery and leather at much cheaper prices. Thus Montalcino began a transition from an industrial town to an agricultural town (producing, amongst other things, wine).

She also told us a funny story about a battle between Florence and Siena in which Florence and Siena expected Montalcino to choose sides and provide assistance. The soldiers of Montalcino moved very slowly to the battlefield. So slowly in fact (and TOTALLY by accident....), that by the time they reached the battle, it was over and Siena had won. Woops! The soldiers from Montalcino of course said that they had always intended on assisting Siena. As punishment for arriving so late, the Sienese army made the Montalcino soldiers bury all the dead from the battle. For this reason, people from Montalcino are called "gravediggers." Another interesting fact about this battle is that it is thought to be the inspiration of Dante's line about the "river that ran red," as this battle was particularly bloody.

Next we visited a very small producer, Il Coco, run by Giacomo (pictured below). Giacomo is a 27 year old son of an oncologist. He operates an organic winery which only produces around 4000 bottles a year, of which none is exported to the United States. His decision to produce wines "organically" is due largely in part to his father's oncology practice, and a desire to not use harmful pesticides in producing his wines. We tasted his Brunello and then he let us taste his Grappa di Brunello (made from the grape skins), and taught us how to properly taste Grappa. You pour a small amount into the palm of your hand and let the alcohol evaporate, after which only the smell of the grapes is left in your hand. Let me tell you, Grappa smells much better in the palm of your hand then in the glass. It's 45% alcohol, so it's strong!

After Il Coco, we headed to Piombaia for lunch at the farmhouse on the estate. Lunch was fabulous and the wine was plentiful! There were dogs and cats running around and one of the cats sat on my lap for most of the meal and attempted to eat my whole dessert (which was a sweet cream).

Bellies full, the group headed to the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo, an eighth century Benedictine monastery. We were supposed to hear gregorian chants, but perhaps the fathers weren't feeling very musical that day!

After the abbey, we said goodbye to our group and our excellent tour guide and made our way to Castello Banfi, where we would spend the next three nights................

La Bella Toscana: Barbi and San Gimignano

Day three of our journey begins. Our first agenda item is to take a tour of Fattoria dei Barbi, which is only 4 or 5 km outside of our hotel. The tour was a public one, and so there were 15 or 16 people total. The tour guide explained the different products that Barbi produces. They have a chart of all the products, from wines to olive oils to cheeses and cured meats. She also explained the different rules regarding Rosso, Brunello and Brunello Riserva production.

The age their grapes in french barrique. Wine has to be filled all the way to the top of the barrels (there can be no air), hence the little glass contraption at the top.

Part of the tour included their storage space where they keep bottles from older vintages. They also kept a bottle of the very first Brunello that Barbi produced as a souvenir. These are kept in a dark cool cellar at 13 degrees celsius (55 degrees farenheit for you winos out there) and at a humidity of 85%. They stay horizontal and are rarely touched. Hence the dust!

After touring Barbi, we headed to San Gimignano, a medieval town famed for its 13 remaining towers (not sure how many there were originally). Upon arrival, we headed straight to lunch at Mangiatoia - a lunch that would end up being declared our "second favorite" of the whole trip! I got a papardelle with a wild boar ragu and the Boy got the pici (which was pure awesomeness). He got lamb chops and I had some stewed beef (Tuscans are big into the slow cooked meats... mmmm.....). We shared a bottle of an 05 Rosso, and then headed out to explore San Gimignano.

La Bella Toscana: Siena

We woke up our first morning in Montalcino to this sunrise. Que bella! This is when I decided that this is more or less what heaven looks like.After breakfast at the hotel, we began our journey to Siena. We arrived at the medieval gates to the city easily enough, but then our NeverLost lady gingerly guided us such that we actually drove into the Piazza del Campo. For those of you who have never been to Siena, the Piazza del Campo is the main "square" (really an oval) of the city where, twice each summer, the Palio, a very famous horse race, is run. Suffice to say, driving is not authorized here. After a short encounter with an Italian policeman, we drove around and found a parking space. As we WALKED back towards the Campo, we heard drumming. Sure enough, it was the feast day of the patron saint of the Leopard contrada. I immediately thought of my mother as leopard is her signature print.The Campo was followed by the Duomo and the Baptistry. The Duomo is one of the most decorated churches I've ever seen. Everything from the walls to the ceilings to the floors is decorated. It's an exercise for the eyes. The Baptistry is also very pretty. The boy was quick to point out that one of the paintings of Christ carrying the cross clearly shows him leaving Florence with Florentine guards (the Sienese and Florentines are ancient enemies). The artistic license taken with that one was interesting.

(This is the view of Siena from the Museo del Opera)

We then visited the Chapel of Saint Catherine and San Domenico. Then lunch at Ristrorante da Renzo and his first "pici" (fat homemade spaghetti usually served with a meat ragu) and my "cacio e pepe". I had roasted boar which was really really great. We toasted Ga and T with prosecco, got some gelato and made our way back to the car and Montalcino.

Stuffed from lunch, our dinner at Enoteca de Bacchus in Montalcino was a plate of cured meats and a plate of different pecorino cheeses (for which Tuscany is famous). The pecorino with truffles was my favorite. We had a 98 Siro Panceti with this meal. The waitress took such care with the wine (aerator, prepping the glasses, decanting, etc.). A really incredible evening. The boy, Mr. Fitness and good eating freak himself, even ate lard!

La Bella Toscana: Montalcino

The boy and I just returned home from 11 glorious days in Tuscany (mostly in Montalcino). I am writing here mostly to give myself a very detailed memory of our trip - but I suppose this could also be used as some sort of travel planning guide for anyone who is interested in traveling to the area.

August 29: Board flight in Newark. Select "Gone with the Wind" from On Demand movies on the plane. Take sleeping pill around the time Bonny dies. Wake up with one more hour to go in our flight to Rome. Arrive in Rome. Immigration man stamps my passport over another exit stamp from the Cayman Islands (aside: I went to Italy in 2001. This was maybe my second time to leave the country and I desperately desired passport stamps as evidence of my journeys. Man in Rome did not stamp my book at all...... Fast forward to 2008. Man stamps it over another darker stamp. Glad I took pictures... my passport doesn't really indicate that I've ever entered Italy.)

We didn't check any luggage (God bless summer and sundresses). We pick up our standard rental "FIAT" and our "NeverLost" box. We'll come to curse the NeverLost lady to the point that on the last day of our trip the Boy suggests that if I want to destroy her, he'll pay Hertz for it. Sadly we couldn't find a sporting goods store to buy a baseball bat. I had definite dreams of an Office Space fax machine montage...... After some misdirection and a small dirt road.... we eventually arrive at our hotel in Montalcino. Hotel Vecchia Oliviera is a charming hotel right on the edge of town (the town is REALLY small). The views from our room are GLORIOUS. It's like a postcard. We walk from the edge of town to the center of town in about two and a half minutes and drink our first glass of wine (a 99 Biondi Santi for him, an 05 Guidalberto for me) and have some pasta and sandwiches. Gelato #1 follows.

We walk around Montalcino and see the Fortezza there (pictured above). You can go all the way to the top so we climb some stairs and look at the beautiful views for awhile. The Boy points out that the "holes" in the walls were for pouring hot lead, etc. on one's enemies as they tried to storm the gates. (Slits for the hot lead)

Unexpectedly downstairs in one of the great rooms of the fort, they have an art display which contains different artist's depictions of all the various mascots of the contrada in Siena which raced in the recent Palio. This is the Unicorn, which holds a special place in my heart.
We buy a bottle of wine (the only one I forget) and head back to the hotel to drink it. Afterwards, at 7pm (we've been up for awhile) it's bedtime. Unfortunately, jet lag sets in and we wake up at 11:30 pm, WIDE awake and ready to begin our day.* We take another sleeping pill..... four hours of sleep is definitely NOT enough. And, this isn't New York City.... you can't start your day at 11:30pm.... this city definitely sleeps.

Here are a couple of pictures of the view from our hotel room.



This brings us to day #2.........

* Fortuitously, at 11:30 I had received an email from the best friend Ga that her boy had popped the question (which I knew was going to happen). Clearly I was meant to know this news and this is why I woke up.