We first visited Donatella Cinelli Colombini. Donatella is the sister of one of the owners of Barbi. She operates a female only winery, setting out to prove that women can compete and make good wine. Winemaking, like many other labor intensive professions, is considered "man's work." The entire winemaking process is run by women. Our tour guide was really awesome. She told us about the history of Montalcino and how it had come to produce Brunello. The town originally produced pottery and leather (using the tannins of the oak trees which grew in the hills) and was quite prosperous. However, after a siege by Florence which lasted quite some time, new technologies had been discovered to produce pottery and leather at much cheaper prices. Thus Montalcino began a transition from an industrial town to an agricultural town (producing, amongst other things, wine).
She also told us a funny story about a battle between Florence and Siena in which Florence and Siena expected Montalcino to choose sides and provide assistance. The soldiers of Montalcino moved very slowly to the battlefield. So slowly in fact (and TOTALLY by accident....), that by the time they reached the battle, it was over and Siena had won. Woops! The soldiers from Montalcino of course said that they had always intended on assisting Siena. As punishment for arriving so late, the Sienese army made the Montalcino soldiers bury all the dead from the battle. For this reason, people from Montalcino are called "gravediggers." Another interesting fact about this battle is that it is thought to be the inspiration of Dante's line about the "river that ran red," as this battle was particularly bloody.
Next we visited a very small producer, Il Coco, run by Giacomo (pictured below). Giacomo is a 27 year old son of an oncologist. He operates an organic winery which only produces around 4000 bottles a year, of which none is exported to the United States. His decision to produce wines "organically" is due largely in part to his father's oncology practice, and a desire to not use harmful pesticides in producing his wines. We tasted his Brunello and then he let us taste his Grappa di Brunello (made from the grape skins), and taught us how to properly taste Grappa. You pour a small amount into the palm of your hand and let the alcohol evaporate, after which only the smell of the grapes is left in your hand. Let me tell you, Grappa smells much better in the palm of your hand then in the glass. It's 45% alcohol, so it's strong!
After Il Coco, we headed to Piombaia for lunch at the farmhouse on the estate. Lunch was fabulous and the wine was plentiful! There were dogs and cats running around and one of the cats sat on my lap for most of the meal and attempted to eat my whole dessert (which was a sweet cream).
Bellies full, the group headed to the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo, an eighth century Benedictine monastery. We were supposed to hear gregorian chants, but perhaps the fathers weren't feeling very musical that day!
After the abbey, we said goodbye to our group and our excellent tour guide and made our way to Castello Banfi, where we would spend the next three nights................
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