Thursday, September 11, 2008

La Bella Toscana: Siena

We woke up our first morning in Montalcino to this sunrise. Que bella! This is when I decided that this is more or less what heaven looks like.After breakfast at the hotel, we began our journey to Siena. We arrived at the medieval gates to the city easily enough, but then our NeverLost lady gingerly guided us such that we actually drove into the Piazza del Campo. For those of you who have never been to Siena, the Piazza del Campo is the main "square" (really an oval) of the city where, twice each summer, the Palio, a very famous horse race, is run. Suffice to say, driving is not authorized here. After a short encounter with an Italian policeman, we drove around and found a parking space. As we WALKED back towards the Campo, we heard drumming. Sure enough, it was the feast day of the patron saint of the Leopard contrada. I immediately thought of my mother as leopard is her signature print.The Campo was followed by the Duomo and the Baptistry. The Duomo is one of the most decorated churches I've ever seen. Everything from the walls to the ceilings to the floors is decorated. It's an exercise for the eyes. The Baptistry is also very pretty. The boy was quick to point out that one of the paintings of Christ carrying the cross clearly shows him leaving Florence with Florentine guards (the Sienese and Florentines are ancient enemies). The artistic license taken with that one was interesting.
(This is the view of Siena from the Museo del Opera)

We then visited the Chapel of Saint Catherine and San Domenico. Then lunch at Ristrorante da Renzo and his first "pici" (fat homemade spaghetti usually served with a meat ragu) and my "cacio e pepe". I had roasted boar which was really really great. We toasted Ga and T with prosecco, got some gelato and made our way back to the car and Montalcino.

Stuffed from lunch, our dinner at Enoteca de Bacchus in Montalcino was a plate of cured meats and a plate of different pecorino cheeses (for which Tuscany is famous). The pecorino with truffles was my favorite. We had a 98 Siro Panceti with this meal. The waitress took such care with the wine (aerator, prepping the glasses, decanting, etc.). A really incredible evening. The boy, Mr. Fitness and good eating freak himself, even ate lard!

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